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Tedy Mileva

"Koshorest foustan" from Razlog, the end of the XIX century


"Koshorest foustan" from Razlog, the end of the XIX century

The costume is shown in August in the calendar for 2022, 14 sheets, wall, with folk costumes "А Pirin Girl from the Razlog region".

👉 You can view the calendar here.

❤ Radost Dimitrova from Razlog wore the costume.

❤ The costume is from the fund of the Historical Museum - Razlog.

❤ We truly thank the Municipality of Razlog for the support in publishing this calendar!

👉 The "koshorest foustan" from Razlog replaced the "aba" at the end of the 19th century and in the first decades of the 20th century.

It is made of home-woven woolen fabric with protruding large „plohi” called "gruchki".

The bosom repeats that of the aba and is V-shaped. The bosom, skirts and sleeves are lined with black velvet fabric. Below, a shirt (koshulya) with an embroidered axillary incision, called the triple stitch, is worn, and around it there is embroidery on the same „zapeski” that are on the sleeves. The sleeves are wide, embroidered with cuffs, ending with rich hand-knitted lace, which is filed under the sleeve of the dress.

🔸 Festive and bridal shirts are richly decorated with embroidery, which has a protective function. It is proudly worn by women and passed down from generation to generation to protect them from evil forces. Among the types of embroidery there are flowers, stars, gates, „rudane”, pliers, etc. So far, 28 species are known to be worn by women of different ages. The youngest - children carry wild strawberries called "zvonitsi", followed by unmarried and then married women and their mothers-in-law. By repeating the symbols of „zapeski” made more than a century ago, women are the surest guardian and successor of folk traditions and knowledge. Researchers of this folk art claim that the „zapeski” are characteristic and originate only from Razlog and are spread to other settlements in the region (such as Sapareva Banya) by emigrants.

🔸 The girdle is with "prachki" - „futa” of two fabrics, of vertical colored stripes, with small plant elements in them. The base is black, and the lines and elements are red, green, and yellow, like blood, grass, and the sun, without which nothing will be alive.

"Koshorest foustan" from Razlog, the end of the XIX century

🔸 At the front is a beaded belt with embroidered flowers, fastened at the front with round buckles. White socks and moccasins are worn on the feet.

🔸 The head is covered with "kushak”, decorated with yellow flowers and long fringes at the edges, which are crossed and fall freely on the shoulders. It is extremely important that a married woman must not be with her head uncovered. Only her husband can see her at home. This is the festive attire of a young bride who can now wear buckles and cover her head with „kushak” when she goes to pour water.


"Koshorest foustan" from Razlog, the end of the XIX century

👉 The costume was worn by the beautiful young girl from Razlog, Radost Dimitrova. You can learn more about her in her business card:

"I am named after my grandmother Radka, but my mother liked the name Radost very much, so they decided to be a little different from Radka. I am Radost Dimitrova. I am 17 years old. I do folk dances, folk singing and visit a theater troupe. I love these activities and attend them with interest.

My roots are from different parts of Bulgaria. My mother's parents - my grandfather is from Berkovitsa, and my grandmother from Novo Lovcha. My father's parents - my grandfather is from Marevo and my grandmother is from Levunovo. However, I was born and raised in Razlog. I love and have music and dances in my blood. I became passionate about folk dances when I started visiting the dance group "Razlozhenche" in the community center in Razlog. When I hear the zurna and the beating of the drum, something in me trembles. I love folk music and I appreciate it.

I like everything related to my homeland. Here we celebrate all local holidays. The most pleasant for me is the annual carnival "Starchevata". I have so many memories imprinted deep in my heart related to the folk traditions in Razlog.

When I put on an old folk costume, I am transported to the past. It's as if I can feel the emotions of the woman who wore it. The feeling is indescribable. I like to wear folk costumes and I wear them quite often on different occasions.

For me, Bulgaria is life, thrill, warmth in the heart. "

👉 Photographer: Petar Petrov

👉 The photos for the calendar were taken within the project "Study of the specifics and richness of national costumes from the Razlog region in the light of cultural diversity" is realized with the financial support of the National Culture Fund under the program "Cultural Heritage".



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