In the first decades of the twentieth century, in almost all areas, the „saya” has appeared by the entry of new clothing. First, the cut of the garment is changed - without a central cut, with an upper fitted part and a lower skirt folded from the waist down, which is close to the dress. This is how the clothing known as the „foustan”' is created, and the bright colors are preferred for it. The new garment continues to play the role of a „saya” and is worn with a shirt underneath and an apron above.
The scarlet (red) „foustan” is a typical and most popular costume in Razlog. It first appeared in the town of Mehomiya and in urban-type settlements in Razlog at the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. He is also known as Yakorudski, because it is first worn by their girls - the first "fashionistas". The „foustan” with a cut of a dress, belted with the "scarlet preskutnik", is perceived as the first entry of the transitional urban clothing in the area. It features a bright red color, fitted upper part with a cut square bosom with rich velvet, wide and handmade purl decoration. For her is sewn a lower part of a fine pleated skirt with hoops of black velvet or satin.
Below is a shirt (koshulya) with zapeski “pliotchi”, which can be undecorated for a weekday or with a richly decorated bosom for the holidays. The shirts are decorated with "zapeski" (plates, carnations, tulips, etc.), a axillaryopening and skirts. The axillary opening is richly decorated with a string of several rows, which alternates with a black braid. The lace on the cuffs is hand-knitted, framed with red thread for young girls and brides. Over time, the shirt shortens and is not visible under the skirt. This also reduces the decoration on the skirts. Decorating remains at the top, which is sometimes called „rizitsa”.
On the waist is a scarlet „preskulnik” (apron) with aspri. Popular in Razlog and widespread in the neighboring areas among the girls and young brides is this one-layer apron with a red background and a network of rhombic figurines, which are initially formed of colored yarn, and later of "aspri", "fluturki" (sequins). Because of the pattern, it is called: "preskutnik na rakli" or "cups", "sklupeni usta" (according to the technique of execution). It is stored on the waist with the fabrics of a loom without a hill "lashnitsi", dotted with small geometric ornaments: "ocheta", "bulcheta", "krakulitsi".
In cold weather and on holidays, the head is covered with a "scarlet kushak" or "parlenda" in warm weather.
Brides wear white knitted socks with colorful motifs on the ankles and feet, but in the 1940s they already wore factory knitted socks in white and beige. The feet are shoed in modern Wallachian slippers or factory shoes with side fastening. This costume is relevant and worn until the middle of the twentieth century.
The scarlet "foustan", as a festive attire, is worn with jewelry - a metal medallion (gold pendar) or a beaded necklace. Girls and brides wear earrings, and only married women can wear buckles.
Katerina Atanasova from Razlog put on the costume.
The costume is owned by the family from Razlog.
In fulfillment of the goals of the project we present some of the most beautiful traditional costumes, typical for the Razlog valley in the last 2 centuries.
The project "Study of the specifics and richness of national costumes from the Razlog region in the light of cultural diversity" is realized with the financial support of the National Culture Fund under the program "Cultural Heritage".
We offer our sincere thanks to our hosts from the Historical Museum - Razlog, and to all local people who helped with the realization.
Special thanks to all participants and team members who took their time and with useful information, knowledge and valuable advice made possible the work on the project.
A reverence to the girls and boys from the town of Razlog, who stood in front of our camera and with their enthusiasm, youth and beauty revived for a new life the most beautiful costumes from old Mehomiya.
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